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The bakers of Season 12 of Netflix’s “Great British Baking Show.”

(Mark Bourdillon)

I am not going to win any points for originality by recommending this as a comfort watch. For most of its decade-plus run, the reality competition baking show has been a television balm for anxious viewers. With its pastel hues, string soundtrack and never-ending stream of slightly naughty puns, “Great British Baking Show” is so pleasant to watch that it’s easy to forget that baking can be an incredibly stressful pastime, as anyone who has ever attempted to make a homemade funfetti cake shaped like Bluey can tell you. But even by its own high standards, the latest season, which premiered on Netflix in September and is nearing its home stretch, has been exceptional. It’s not easy to keep a long-running reality show going strong, but it seems that its producers have actually listened to feedback. After a few still-entertaining but slightly off seasons, host Matt Lucas was replaced by Alison Hammond, whose cheerful ebullience has buoyed the vibes in the tent. They’ve also dispensed with the gimmicky challenges (e.g. making pitas over an open fire), insensitive themes (Mexican Week) and returned to basics — or what counts as basic on a show where people build towers out of choux pastry. Most of all, the cast this season is superb, with an incredible level of talent, memorable personalities and delightful accents. I am particularly fond of Nelly, originally from Slovakia, who created a showstopper inspired by her pregnancy losses (excuse me as a I grab a tissue) and Dylan, a Jason Momoa lookalike with a flair for unusual flavors. “Great British Baking Show” isn’t a democracy — Prue Leith and Paul Hollywood are the only people who get to vote — but it’s a true meritocracy. If only the world were more like that tent. — Meredith Blake

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